Sept 14 – 22nd, 2018

Another red-eye flight to a foreign country for me.  Direct flight from LAX to Reykjavik.  Started flying at 7pm Pacific time to arrive at 11am Iceland time (a difference of +8hours).  I went with the cheap airline where they nickel and dime you for everything.  Wow airlines – so no snacks and no meal and a pricey checked bag later… probably should have went Delta instead (meal and bag included on an international flight). Plus they froze me out on the plane, they may have been trying to prep me for the weather change. Brrr….

Time change: +8h ahead of California

Exchange rate: slightly confusing so $1 USD = ~122ISK so 1 to 100 basically.  I just moved over two decimal spots so if it said $3750ISK = $37.50 in my head. It’s slightly more but it made the exchange easier.  FYI: Everything in Iceland is more expensive!! So be prepared for the sticker shock. For eg. A regular beer is $14?!?

We had planned this trip 6-8 months ahead of time.  We chose September because it fell between our travel nurse contracts, it would hopefully be less touristy and not snowy enough to close off the ring road.  Our goal was to drive ring road in a camper van.  In hindsight, this is a lot easier that it first seemed.  There are several campervan companies in the country.  So google them all, here are a few we looked at:

• Campervan Iceland  – we chose this one because it was well reviewed and had a 4 x 4 automatic option (neither of us know how to drive stick)
• Iceland Campervans – this site has great links on Iceland campsites and driving tips
• Go Campers
• Camp Easy
• Camper Iceland
• Happy Campers
• Campers In Iceland
• Cozy Campers

These are just a few of the many…I believe many of them are the same outfitter as most take you to the same lot to pick up your vans from the Keflavik airport.

Things to consider when you are choosing your vehicle:

• How many people does it need to fit
• Do you want an automatic or a manual shift
• 4 X 4 or not? – will you be staying on ring road then really no need for it
• Comfort – most have heaters and provide stove and basic kitchen utensils
• Wifi – was included in ours which was a must as we used our phones to map everything thus no need for a GPS – google maps worked just fine.

TRAVEL TIP: if you want to save some cash and are ready to hit the road right when you get there, book your van for the day you arrive.  The pickup is free from KEF airport and not from Reyjkavik (which is 45 minutes away Flybus+ is the cheapest option available – $3750ISK one way or $6600ISK both ways).

We did not plan it that way and spent the extra $66 to and from the airport transport to pick up our camper van the next day.

Grocery stores: There are several throughout the island.  We stocked up on supplies at Krónan (decently priced and selection) and Bónus were the two we chose to frequent.

Ring Road

Day One – Reykjavik to Siglufjördur Campsite (8ish hour drive)

Stops: Borgarnes, Snaefellskjökull National Park, Siglufjördur

Driving the Ring Road is extremely easy during the day.  It’s nicely paved.  Good Signage. Stops along the way are intermittent, beautiful vistas everywhere during the drive.  Hard to randomly stop sometimes due to lack of turn outs and not wanting to invade some random Icelandic farm to get a picture.

We chose to stop at this little fishing town after researching camp sites.  All the other travel blogs we read stopped in Akureyri.   Our detour into Snaefellsjökull National Park took a 3 hour chunk of our day,  so we arrived into our first camp site in the dark.  We set up camp (ie. parked) and made the bed, had a nice hot shower and heated up some water for our fancy ramen dinner.

 

TRAVEL TIP:  Gas stations are all over Iceland.  Several in every large town.  Some better than others (for variety of goods, food and bathroom quality).  The one we chose to stop at for most of our stops was N1.  Our camper van company provided a discount key card (which was attached to our keys) for both Olis and N1.  Also, if you plan to use a card to pay for gas they only use cards that have a chip and 4 digit pin.  (So if you have credit card that does not come with a pin, you can’t use it).

On our first drive we decided to partake in the traditional Icelandic hotdog at our first N1 stop in Borgarnes.  A friendly gentleman explained the keys to a good Icelandic hotdog and side note: it will be the cheapest thing to eat on your ring road, road trip at the gas stations.

Detour to Snaefellskjökull National Park – so if you are short on time, I would say you could skip the park.  we were in full on FOMO so we decided to drive into the park, we were pretty unimpressed with what was to offer.  Lava fields, there were a couple vista points and a cave exploration (at at cost).  I’m sure if we had researched it more we would have found something spectacular, but driving through was pretty blah…in comparison to the rest of the island, that is.

 

Day Two – Siglufjördur Campsite to Camping Mývatn

Stops: Akureyri, Goðafoss, Mývatn Baths

We woke up to heavy rains and winds,  we tried to wait it out but the hours  were passing and the pool of water surrounding our van just continued to grow.  So we decided to brush our teeth and hit the road.  The rain let up at times letting us see some of the beautiful mountain vistas.  We had a leisurely morning, found a coffee house in a park in Akureyri and enjoyed the famous Icelandic yogurt called Skyr (BTW: it’s delicious).

 

We also decided to hit up our first of many waterfalls on this trip.  Goðafoss was a short walk from the parking lot, there are two different options  to view the falls from two different angles if you are so inclined.

 

A big highlight on the trip for me was the Mývatn baths and the campsite.  The view of the lake at the campsite was beautiful.  We made a quick meal of pesto and pasta with a glass of red wine as we watched the sun go down on the tranquil lake.  It was a perfect way to end day two of our road trip.

 

Day Three – Camping Mývatn to Seydisfjordur Camping Site (5 hours 42 mins)

Stops: Námafjall Hverir, Dettifoss, Raurhöfn (Arctic Henge), Eglisstaðir, Seydisfjordur campsite

Námafjall Hverir and Raurhöfn (Arctic Henge)

 

Our second waterfall on this trip was Detifoss – large and powerful.  The parking lot is a dead giveaway that you are close.  It’s short hike from the parking lot, the expanse of these falls is breathtaking (100 metres wide).  Detifoss has the greatest volume of any waterfall in Europe.  Approximately 500 cubic meters of water per second.

The drive from Detifoss to the Raurhöfn was an exciting pot hole filled ride.  It started off as a paved road then, transitioned into gravel with a ton of pot holes (my Winnipeg pot hole avoiding driving skills came in handy).

 

The drive was a little long to get to the Seydisfjordur campsite, but it was well worth the drive.  We stopped for coffee and gas a couple times (and to stretch our legs).  The simple beauty surrounding this quaint little town left us speechless.

 

Possible detour: to Borgarfjiördur Eystri – during puffin season which is usually early April to September.  It was already late September so we decided against making this extra jaunt.

Day Four – Seydisfjordur Camping Site to Svinafell Campsite 

Stops: Höfn, Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon, Diamond Beach, Fjallsárlón Glacial Lagoon

We chose to explore more of the quaint town of Seydisfjordur in the morning.  The town had a mystical quality about it.

 

TRAVEL TIP: Optional stop: we were headed to Vesturhorn (which is a mountain view by a beach, we had seen in an instagram pic) we drove to find out there’s a fee to get in since it’s on someone’s property.  So we opted out (being the frugal travelers we are).

Höfn – a cute fishing town with an adorable small town feel.  Ate lunch at Pakkhús, delicious icelandic specialties.  Langoustine pizza and fish stew (which is more like a casserole, but delicious none the less).

 

Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon and Diamond Beach – located across the highway from each other, you can knock these two off the list quickly.  Definitely a tourist spot so get there early if you want to beat the crowds.

 

Fjallsárlón Glacial Lagoon – Just a short drive down the road we saw a ton of cars parked and decided to check it out.  Turns out it was another Glacial Lagoon.  A short trail down to the water’s edge made for some cool pics.

 

The changing vistas and landscape during this part of the drive were dramatic and beautiful.  The stark beauty of the landscape is really amazing and it’s hard not to just stop and take pictures.

 

It took us a bit to decide which campsite to stay at this night, it was a toss up as we wanted to be close to Svartifoss so we could hike to it in the morning. We settled on Svinafell and I think we made the right decision.

 

Day Five – Svinafell Campsite to Vik Camping (1 hours 42mins)

Stops: Svartifoss Falls, Víkurfjara – Black sand Beach, Reynisfjara – Basalt columns, Dyrhóley Viewpoint, Seljalandsfoss, Glúfrabúi

The southern part of the island is definitely much busier.  So be prepared for crowds and I would suggest to plan the spots which spots you want the least amount of tourists in your pictures, for first thing in the morning. Also, the various stops are much closer together so driving to each one takes no time at all.

We started the day off with a short hike (2.5 miles) up to Svartifoss Falls in Skaftafell National Park.  There is a park entry/parking fee that you can pay on exit at the main building.

 

Víkurfjara – Black sand Beach, this beach is picturesque and when we arrived there were very few people on it.  The sand is pristine and stunning.  Close by there is a great soup shop called appropriately, The Soup Company.  We stopped for a lunch and trip planning session.

 

Reynisfjara (Basalt columns) – These columns are located on the beach.  They make for some great pictures but always a ton of tourists so I would either come in the morning or right at sunset.

 

Seljalandsfoss and Glúfrabúi – Two waterfalls in the same park with a short hike in between.  For Seljalandsfoss I would definitely suggest to do the walk behind it.  Be prepared to get soaked from the mist, but this was one of the only waterfalls (of the popular ones) you can get up close and personal (Skogafoss being the other one) .  The pics are worth it.

 

Dyrhóley Viewpoint – A short windy drive up to the top gives you some amazing views of the beach below.  We stayed for sunset.

 

Day Six – Vik Camping to Grindavik Camping

Stops: Solheimasandur Plane Wreck, Skógafoss, Gulfoss, Froðheimer Tomato Greenhouse, Blue lagoon Geothermal Spa

We set out for the Solheimasandur Plane Wreck first thing in the morning (as we wanted few to none tourists in our pics).  Vik campsite is a short drive 30 minute drive to the parking lot trail head.  The blustery winds didn’t deter us and the pay off was worth it (4.5 miles).

 

Skógafoss – This waterfall is the other one you can get up close and personal to, a towering 60 meters high the water crashes down creating an impressive mist.  Be prepared to get wet and depending on the light…see a few mist rainbows.

 

Gulfoss – This waterfall is part of the Golden Circle tour that leaves from Reykjavik daily, so be prepared for crowds. These waterfalls are expansive and impressive to say the least. I will say at this point, the waterfalls are getting tiresome, but each have been different and beautiful so they are definitely still worth visiting.

Frðdheimer Tomato Greenhouse Restaurant – We happened upon this little gem by chance.  We wanted to stop somewhere for lunch so I used trusty ol’ trip advisor to look for restaurants in the area.  The cold weather kept us feening for soup so this place was perfect.  Where everything is tomato based…from the tomato beer to tomato desserts.  We indulged in a decently priced all you can eat tomato soup and bread lunch.   It was definitely one of the many highlight meals of our trip.

 

 

Blue Lagoon Geothermal Spa– You can’t really come to Iceland without stopping at the famous Blue Lagoon.  Make sure you book ahead of time as it sells out very fast.   I  personally was happy with my 2 hour stay, included in the (comfort) price was 1 silica mud mask and 1 drink.

TRAVEL TIP: The price ranges depending on the time you go.  The earlier and later in the day you book the cheaper it is.  There are also different price options for how pampered you would like to be.  You can make a day of it if you choose.  Several of the guidebooks say it’s a good way to get rid of jet lag, you can get right off the plane and there is a shuttle from the airport that can take you there with a place to store luggage.  So just food for thought.

 

 

Day Seven – Grindavik Campsite to Reyjkavik campsite

TRAVEL TIP: The “campsites” are not the same as those in the U.S. and Canada.  They are more like grassy parking areas for the camper vans with a main common lodge with bathrooms, showers, kitchen and seating area.  There is usually someone manning the main area to take the parking fees.   If not, we have parked and paid for our spot in the morning.  Most campsites separate areas of campervans and tenters.

Since the Grindavik campsite is closest in the South part to Reykjavik making it the last stop before the city.  Many people leave many extra camping essentials there.  If you wanted to save some cash at the grocery store I would stop here and stock up on free goodies.  From salt and pepper to gas burner fuel and condiments galore.

Reykjavik Campsite – We spent our last day with the camper van at the Rejkjavik campsite. Usually the city lights drown out the northern lights, but we lucked out and on our last day we were able to see them in full bloom.  I’ve seen them before, but Amber had not, so I was super happy she got to see them, especially since it was our last night.  My severely amateur photography skills were on full display, but captured none the less.

 

Reykjavik

We spent our first and last day exploring the capital city and all it’s wonder.  Colorful homes, narrow streets, iconic church, tons of restaurants and bars.

Good Eats

Through eaves dropping we found a great soup spot called Súpa.  Warm and tasty and flavorful and decently priced, I absolutely loved how the building was painted.

Sæmundur i Sparifötunum, the gastropub restaurant in the Kex Hostel.  I highly recommend this place for delicious food and a cool vibe, with eclectic furnishings like, old sewing machine tables as the dining tables. We had a beet salad and the fried Ling (we googled to find out it was a white fish).

 

If you know me at all, I have a thing for coffee houses so my trip to Iceland wouldn’t be complete without a couple stops: Reykjavik Roasters and Vinyl 

My other obsession is for Breweries: I was pleased to find there was one in Reykjavik called BrewDog.  Unfortunately, it was closed for a special event.

Hlemmur Matholl – a newish foodhall, filled with smaller cantina style drink and food places.  Great place for a drink or even a meal.

Ostabudin – Recommended to us by the fantastic Peelanders This resturant was fantastic. Later to be informed Ostabudin means “Cheese Shop”.  Definitely in our wheelhouse of food choices.

 Old Iceland Restaurant – Our splurge meal on our last night.  We indulged in scallops, and the world renowned Icelandic lamb (supposed to be the best in the world). It was pretty delicious.

 

TRAVEL TIP: Our frugal travel minds were perplexed with the price point for food in Iceland.  We split meals and spent the most money on our cocktails or beers.  So if you want to save some cash, then opt out of the alcoholic beverage as some can cost over $20 for one cocktail.

I had to comment on the tap water in Iceland.  The tap water is the cleanest and freshest in the world, by far.  I miss it, maybe it had healing properties or something…but it was amazing. So definitely bring refillable water bottles and fill up at the campsites on your travels.

Our trip was originally scheduled for 2 weeks we shortened the trip due to our efficient bad assery we were done with the campervan tour a whole 2 days early.

TRAVEL TIP: Unfortunately, there is no refund on your booking so try to gauge your time +/- a day (to account for weather delays) so you don’t lose out on too much cash.

In summary, the land of fire and ice is absolutely stunning.  The natural landscapes are a photographers dream not to mention the opportunity to capture the aurora borealis.  Our Iceland trip definitely did not disappoint,  the camper van experience was worth the cost and the adventure that went along with it.   I hope you future Iceland adventurers find this helpful.  To my travel PIC – Amber Kirschbaum – thanks for sharing in the adventure in the van down by the river.